How To Install Replacement Windows From Inside

When Maddy Krauss and her married man, Paul Friedberg, get-go laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-manner domicile, they fell in love with its handcrafted plow-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were too delighted to discover that many of the original architectural details were even so intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate bandage-statuary fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the svelte Victorian-era dwelling house, This Quondam House Boob tube's autumn 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Call in TOH general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install energy-efficient replacements.

Because the existing window frames were sound and square, Tom could utilise insert replacement units—in this instance, Andersen'south Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad woods units fitted with energy-saving, depression-e insulated glass. These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings.

When the job was washed, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked correct, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more matter to love near their old business firm. Here's a look at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

1. Window Replacement Parts

Illustration past Robert Hardin

Types of Replacement Windows

Different total-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are fabricated to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from as narrow as 11 ½ inches to as wide every bit 68 inches, and come in wood, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad forest, and aluminum-clad wood.

There are 3 basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton house—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are attached to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between.

For these to work, the existing window frame must exist level and foursquare. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a set up-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the quondam side jambs. Because you lot're adding new jambs and liners, the glass surface area will be slightly smaller than it was before.

Full-frame replacement windows are like to inserts, except that they have a consummate frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the but pick when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, inside and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

Photo by Russell Kaye

The well-nigh important footstep in the window-replacement process happens long before installation day. Information technology's when you lot measure out the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure you order a replacement unit of measurement that'due south the correct size. Here's how to do it.

• Commencement by measuring the within width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the top, eye, and lesser. Write down the smallest of the iii measurements.
• Next, measure the frame's summit from the top of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the heart, and at the correct. Again, record the smallest measurement.
• Cheque the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The two dimensions should be the same. If the frame is out of square by 1/4 inch or so, don't worry; the replacement can be shimmed to fit. Annihilation more than may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is and then out of whack that a square replacement wouldn't expect right, you'll need a total-frame replacement.
• Finally, use an bending-measuring tool to decide the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a choice of sill angles.

3. Take Out the Sash

Photo by Russell Kaye

• The first step is to remove the old sash from the window frame. In virtually cases, y'all'll demand to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If y'all're planning to reinstall the stops, do this task carefully; they pause hands.)
• Next, take out the departing beads to free the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't be whatever beads. Merely press in on the jamb liners and pull the tiptop of the sash forward.
• Then pin one side of the sash upward to free it from the jamb liners.

4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Photo by Russell Kaye

• If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them free. In the case of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
• Exit the interior and exterior casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

Photo past Russell Kaye

• Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch whatsoever holes or cracks with an exterior-form wood putty, such as the ones from Elmer's or Minwax.
• And then sand the jambs polish, and prime number and paint the surfaces.

6. Remove the Old Sash Weights

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• If the original sash weights are still in identify, take this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate behind the window frame.
• Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

7. Prep For Insulation

Photo by Russell Kaye

Tom likes polyurethane foam, because it'due south more effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Brand certain to use only low-pressure, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
• First, pull out any existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
• Then bore 3/8-inch-bore holes, one near each end and i in the center, downwardly through the sill and upwardly through the head jamb.

eight. Spray in the Foam

Photograph past Russell Kaye

• Shoot the expanding foam into the holes until it begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial system, merely you tin do the same task with foam from a tin can, like Dow's Dandy Stuff.)
• Also spray foam into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Permit the excess to harden for at least 6 hours, and so break or cut it off flush earlier replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Opening

Photo by Russell Kaye

• In preparation for installing the window, utilise an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner confront of the exterior casings or to the blind stops on the tiptop and sides of the frame. Too apply ii continuous beads of caulk along the windowsill.

ten. Install the Window

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• Working from inside the room, gear up the lesser of the insert replacement onto the sill, then tip it up into the opening. Press the window tight against the exterior casings or bullheaded stops.

eleven. Fasten Information technology Loosely

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• Hold the window in place with 1 2-inch screw driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should exist in simply far enough to allow the window to operate.
• Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim equally Necessary

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Adjust the unit of measurement by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until information technology is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
• Measure the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the same. When the window is foursquare, screw it in identify through the predrilled holes.
• To avoid bowing the frame, slip a shim behind the jamb at each screw, so screw through the shim.
• Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

13. Caulk, Prime and Paint

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• From the outside, measure out the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Fill gaps less than 1/4 inch wide with elastomeric caulk. Anything wider must commencement exist blimp with foam-rubber backer rod.
• On the within, fill any gaps around the window with minimally expanding foam.
• Finish up by reinstalling the stops or adding new ones.
• Then prime number and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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Tools

How To Install Replacement Windows From Inside,

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016627/how-to-install-replacement-windows

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